How to Make Your Own Cat Show Drapes For The Supreme

There’s something special about walking into the main hall at The Supreme Cat Show. Hundreds of pens lined up, each one a little showcase of feline potential. Some exhibitors have spent serious money on custom-made drapes that cost more than a weekend away. Beautiful fabrics, perfectly gathered hems, colour-coordinated with their cat’s coat — it all looks incredibly professional.

But here’s the thing: you don’t need to drop £300+ on made-to-measure drapes to look like you know what you’re doing. If you’ve got a needle, some basic sewing skills, and a Saturday afternoon free, you can make a set of show pen drapes that’ll turn heads — and save yourself a fortune in the process.

I’ve been showing cats for over twenty years, and I’ve made sets of drapes from scratch more times than I can count. Not because I’m a particularly talented seamstress (I’m not — I’m functional), but because making your own means you can choose exactly the colours and fabrics you want, experiment without breaking the bank, and adjust things to your show pen perfectly. Plus, there’s something quietly satisfying about hanging drapes you’ve made yourself.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the entire process: what you need to buy, how to measure your pen, and step-by-step instructions for making front, back, and side curtains that’ll look professional and keep your cat comfortable at the show. Let’s get started.

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Why Bother with Show Drapes?

If you’re new to showing, you might wonder: it’s just fabric, right? What’s the big deal?

Three reasons matter here.

First, judges notice. A tidy, well-presented pen tells a judge that you care about your cat. It doesn’t change the judgment (a scruffy pen won’t lose you points), but it signals professionalism and respect for the show. Judges are human — appearance matters.

Second, your cat is more comfortable. Show pens are stainless steel boxes. They’re bright, loud, and full of strangers. Good drapes muffle some of that noise, reduce the light, and create a small den-like space where your cat feels safer. A calmer cat is a better cat at the show, and that matters.

Third, there’s a community aspect. The show hall is where exhibitors gather and chat. Your pen setup becomes part of that conversation. Beautiful drapes (whether bought or homemade) are something to be proud of, and showing that you’ve taken the time to create something nice for your cat is part of the show culture. It matters to you because you care, and that’s enough reason.

What You’ll Need: Shopping List

Before you start, gather your materials. This isn’t a complicated project, but having everything ready makes the sewing go much faster.

Fabric: You’ll need approximately 30–35 metres of fabric in total (yes, that sounds like a lot — but you’ll use most of it). Cotton blend is ideal — it’s hardwearing, washable, and easy to work with. Avoid pure silk or anything too delicate; show pens get knocked about. Budget £1.50–£3 per metre from fabric shops or online. A good choice is plain cotton sateen or cotton/polyester blend.

Curtain wire: You’ll need about 20 metres of galvanised curtain wire (roughly 2mm gauge). This is cheap — usually under £10 for a full roll. It’s strong enough to hold gathered fabric and won’t rust if it gets wet.

Hooks and eyelets: Galvanised “S” hooks (the kind that hook onto curtain wire) — buy a pack of 50 or so. You’ll use about 20–25, and having extras is never a bad idea. Also pick up a pack of metal eyelets (the kind you press into fabric with a tool) — roughly 30–40. A basic eyelet tool kit costs £5–£8.

Foam base: One roll of upholstery-grade foam (2–3 inches thick, roughly 1.5 metres wide) to make a padded base for the pen. Optional but recommended — it’s about £20–£30 and makes a huge difference to comfort. You’ll also need pillowcase-weight cotton to cover it.

Thread, needles, scissors: Good-quality heavy-duty thread (upholstery weight) in a colour that matches or complements your fabric. Standard sewing needles or a needle suitable for a sewing machine.

Optional but helpful: Hem tape and a heat press (or iron) if you want to speed up hemming. A sewing machine makes this job infinitely faster, but it’s possible to hand-sew if you’re patient.

Choosing Your Fabric

This is the fun part — and probably where you’ll spend the most time deciding.

Colour to complement your cat: Think about what your cat’s coat looks like. Dark tabby? Cream fabric or soft grey will make the markings pop and give your cat a flattering background. Blue-cream? Navy or sage green can be stunning. Siamese? Deep jewel tones — burgundy, navy, or forest green — are traditional and look absolutely gorgeous against seal-point or chocolate-point coats. Don’t overthink it, but do think about contrast. A white cat disappears into white drapes.

Washability is non-negotiable. Show pens get dusty. Cats shed. By the end of a show season, your drapes will need a wash. Choose pre-shrunk fabric (most good fabric shops now sell it), and avoid anything that requires dry cleaning. Cotton blends are your friend here.

Weight and hang: You want fabric that’s substantial enough to hang nicely when gathered, but not so heavy that it’s a pain to work with. Medium-weight cotton or cotton/linen blends are perfect. Lightweight fabrics tend to look floppy; heavy fabrics are exhausting to sew by hand.

Iron-friendly: Show drapes will get creased in storage. Choose fabric that can take a warm iron without melting. Test a corner of your fabric first.

Understanding the Double Show Pen Layout

Most exhibitors use a double pen setup at The Supreme and other GCCF shows (two pens side-by-side, shared wall in the middle). This is the standard configuration you’re probably working with.

Standard dimensions: A double pen is approximately 8 feet wide (2.4 metres), 2.5 feet tall (0.75 metres), and about 2 feet deep (0.6 metres). These aren’t exact — pen designs vary slightly — but they’re good working numbers. Measure your actual pen before you buy fabric, just to be sure.

What you’re draping: Three sides of the pen (front, left, and right). The back is sometimes left open (for air flow, and because judges can see the pen from behind). You’ll have:

• Front: 8 feet wide × 2 feet high (the main showcase)
• Left side: 2 feet deep × 2 feet high
• Right side: 2 feet deep × 2 feet high
• Back (optional): 8 feet wide × 1.5–2 feet high

Most exhibitors do all four sides. It looks neater, contains any mess (and cat hair), and gives your cat more privacy.

Making the Front Curtains and Pelmet

This is the star of your setup. The front is what people see first.

Fabric needed: For a gathered front, you want your fabric width to be roughly 1.5 times the width of the curtain rail. For an 8-foot front, that’s 12 feet of fabric (width-wise). You’ll add 1–2 inches for hem allowances on either side.

Height: Cut your fabric 2 feet plus 4 inches (for top and bottom hems). So that’s 28 inches from hem to hem when it’s finished.

Step 1: Join panels if needed. If your fabric isn’t wide enough in a single piece, you’ll need to join panels. Sew two pieces together down the length with a 0.5-inch seam (backstitching for strength). Iron flat.

Step 2: Hem the sides. Fold in 1 inch on each long edge, iron, and stitch down with a straight seam. This keeps everything neat and prevents fraying.

Step 3: Create the gathering channel. At the top of your fabric, fold down 2 inches and iron. This is where your curtain wire will sit. Stitch all the way across, 0.5 inches from the top edge, creating a channel. This is important — the wire needs to sit snugly in this channel.

Step 4: Hem the bottom. Fold up 2 inches at the bottom, iron, and stitch down. This protects the edge and gives you a clean finish.

Step 5: Gather the fabric. Thread your curtain wire through the top channel. The fabric will gather naturally. Spread the gathers evenly across the 8-foot span so it hangs nicely. Don’t pull too tight — you want elegant gathers, not bunching.

The pelmet (optional but recommended): A pelmet is a stiffened strip of fabric along the top that hides the wire and eyelets. Cut a piece of fabric about 12 inches wide (folded in half) and 8 feet long. Stiffen it with pelmet interfacing (iron-on, from any fabric shop). Attach it to the gathered front using contact adhesive or by stitching. It looks more finished and professional.

Making the Back Curtain

The back is simpler because it doesn’t need to gather — it can hang flat.

Dimensions: 8 feet wide × 2 feet high (same width as the front, but less dramatic gathering). Add 4 inches to height for hems, as before.

Steps: Hem the sides (1 inch), create a wire channel at the top (same as the front), hem the bottom (2 inches). This one hangs straight, so you’re not gathering — just a flat panel running the width of the pen.

Why the back? Judges can still see your cat from behind, but the back curtain contains loose cat hair, stops feed bowls rolling backwards, and creates a visual frame. It’s not strictly necessary, but it finishes the look.

Making the Side Curtains

Two side panels, one for the left and one for the right.

Dimensions: Roughly 2 feet deep × 2 feet high. If you want to be generous, go 2 feet 6 inches — it covers more of the pen and looks more solid.

Steps: Cut your fabric to length plus 4 inches (for hems). Hem all four sides (1 inch each). At the top, create a wire channel (2 inches, as before). These hang straight and flat, no gathering needed.

Attachment: The sides need to wrap around the corners of the pen. Use metal eyelets punched into the top of each side curtain (space them about 6 inches apart), and hook them onto the wire with S-hooks. This gives you flexibility to angle them slightly if needed.

Making the Foam Base

This is technically optional, but I’d never skip it now that I’ve used one.

Show pen bases are hard stainless steel. Paws get cold, and after eight hours of standing, a cat’s feet get sore. A 2–3 inch layer of upholstery foam underneath makes the pen infinitely more comfortable. Your cat will settle better, look more relaxed, and actually enjoy the show a bit more.

How to make it: Cut your foam to fit the pen dimensions (8ft × 2ft approximately). Wrap it in cotton fabric — old pillowcases work brilliantly. Stitch the fabric closed (pillowcase-style, so the foam is fully enclosed and can be washed). This makes it washable and stops the foam disintegrating into bits everywhere.

Advantages: Foam base catches spilled water, reduces condensation on the pen floor, keeps the pen tidy, and most importantly, keeps your cat comfortable. It’s heavy enough that your pen won’t shift around if knocked, and it stores flat in your car. Well worth the effort.

Hanging Your Drapes: Technique and Setup

Once your panels are sewn, installation is straightforward.

The wire frame: Most exhibitors use a simple frame of curtain wire attached to the top and sides of the pen. You can rig this with S-hooks onto the pen bars, or (if you’re clever) build a lightweight frame ahead of time. The wire needs to be taut but not stretched to breaking point.

Inserting the wire: Thread your 8-foot length of wire through the channel in your front curtain, side curtains, and back curtain. It’s fiddly but straightforward. The wire will sit snugly in the stitched channel.

Hanging: Attach the wire to the pen with S-hooks (the “male” end hooks onto the wire, the “female” end hooks over the pen bar or frame). Space your hooks about 1 foot apart for stability. Start at the corners and work your way along — this keeps everything even.

Adjusting gathers: Once hung, spread your front gathers evenly across the width. Step back and look at it. If it’s bunching awkwardly on one side, adjust. You want it to look elegant and intentional, not like you’ve just shoved fabric up there.

Final check: Make sure all your tie-off points are secure. The last thing you want at a show is your drapes sliding down mid-day. Double-check all hooks before you put your cat in.

Storage and Transport

You’ve made a beautiful set of drapes. Now you need to keep them in good condition for the season.

Washing: After each show (or every two shows if you’re doing the circuit), wash your drapes. Cold water, mild detergent, gentle cycle. Hang to dry — don’t tumble dry, which will damage the fabric and destroy any structure you’ve created. A quick iron on a warm setting brings them back to life.

Storage: Don’t just scrunch your drapes into a box. Fold them carefully and store them flat or loosely rolled in a spare cupboard. Creases set in fabric, and it’s a pain to steam them out. Better to fold neatly and let them rest between shows.

Transport: Bring a sturdy bag or storage box to each show. Lay your panels flat, build your foam base on top, and you’re done. Some exhibitors make a simple PVC frame that sits in their car — over time, you’ll figure out what works best for your setup.

Longevity: A well-made set of drapes lasts 3–5 years if you’re showing regularly. Eventually the fabric fades or gets worn, and you’ll want to upgrade. But that’s fine — by then you’ll know exactly what you want in your next set.

Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

Using fabric that’s too light or flimsy. Lightweight muslin or cotton voile sounds like it might work, but it doesn’t hang well and looks cheap. Spend the extra bit and get medium-weight fabric. It’ll look better and last longer.

Over-gathering the front. I see exhibitors sometimes pull their gathered curtains so tight that the gathers are sharp and aggressive-looking. You want elegant draping, not angry bunching. Let the fabric breathe.

Forgetting to hem properly. Rough, fraying edges look homemade in a bad way. Spend the time hemming neatly. It’s the difference between “made it myself” and “made it myself, carefully.”

Choosing the wrong colour. I once made a beautiful cream set that made my dark tabby cat disappear completely. Experiment with swatches against your cat’s coat before committing to 30 metres of fabric.

Not securing the wire properly. Loose hooks mean drooping drapes and a stressed cat. Take five minutes to check that everything is secure. It matters.

Skipping the foam base. “I’ll just use the pen as is,” you think. Then you watch your cat standing for six hours and realise you’ve made a mistake. Get the foam. Your cat will thank you.

The Show Season Ahead

Once you’ve made your drapes and used them at your first show, you’ll understand what exhibitors have known for decades: a good pen setup matters. Not for you — for your cat. A calm, comfortable, well-presented pen is where your cat shows at their best.

And there’s something quietly satisfying about knowing that the beautiful drapes framing your cat at The Supreme are ones you’ve made yourself. That’s pride in work done properly, and it matters.

Frequently Asked Questions